Eye Makeup

Many women are mystified by eye makeup, but once you get your routine down, it is easy. Basically three very favorite basic techniques for applying eye makeup are followed by tips for your specific eye shape.

Preparation

Apply a very thin layer of foundation or primer on the eyelids to correct imperfections and create the perfect canvas for the application of color. In fact, eye makeup can stop here and you will still look pulled together.

Set lids with powder if you are using powder eye shadow (skip the powder if you would be using creme or pencils, which will glide more easily over foundation alone).

Choose color

You need to identify colors that work for you, use your hair as a guide. Blondes look better in creams and taupes, while mochas and chocolate browns flatter brunettes. If you are auburn or redhead, go with coppers, peaches, and reddish browns or cool tones like lavenders and pink. Gray hair is gorgeous with soft purples, grays, and blues.

Choose technique

For complete simplicity, dust the eyelid with a wash of one color. Cream eye shadows are great for this look, light to medium tones work best. Add mascara and a brown pencil as needed.

Emphasize on the crease line for depth: Begin with the lightest color at first. Dust a light tone over the eyelid with a medium eye shadow brush using the following technique: Hold the brush very lightly and go from the lashline to slightly beyond the crease (where the eyelid meets the browbone). Glide up to browbone and the brush will naturally lift off your face, just where you want to color to end.

Then dust a medium shade in the crease line (something with a bit more depth than what went on to the eyelid), using a small to medium shadow brush, extend slightly beyond the crease, up toward the browbone. This adds to depth in the eyes. And by going slightly beyond the crease, you can create a contour that is visible even when your eyes are wide open.

Emphasize on the lashline for shape: For definition of eye shape, dust a light to medium tone over the eyelid (see first step in Basic Technique #1). At the lashline, apply a darker tone with an eyeliner brush to create a smudged and dramatic line.

When eye color is completed (you should not be able to see where any of the colors begin or end) use a large eye shadow brush and dust the entire eye area with loose powder to help set and blend. One can add mascara and brow pencil, as needed.

A few common eye makeup mistakes

Cat eyes: Black liquid liner that extends upward well beyond the outside corner of the eye is harsh and looks dated. Brown shadow liner drawn a tiny bit past the eye would be softer.

Kaleidoscope eyes: Bright, shocking mismatched colors do not belong on the eyelid unless you are dressing as a clown for Halloween, choose muted colors in the same family and blend them well.